Menswear often gets lesser mind share and ramp share at fashion week in India. More over the collections for men are ornate, dated and stick to safe silhouettes and palettes. This fashion week however saw two menswear designers who are pushing the envelope experimenting with silhouettes, techniques and tailoring – Meet Manish Bansal & Ujjawal Dubey.
Manish Bansal’s Winter/Festive collection inspired by British Bulldog celebrates dressing-up in a quintessentially British style that simultaneously metamorphosis’s into the unexpected, precious and distinctly modern. The colour palette he has used this season is darker hues of red and blue in lightweight worsted and felted wool, cotton and fluid jersey. He has cleverly combined these with a series of signature checks, which include duo-tones reminiscent of subcultural style of Ska and Two-Tone – a period where British Youth and multiculturalism had a magic combination of danceable music, style and attitude.
Ujjawal Dubey ‘s label Antar Agni’s Winter/Festive collection is a clever juxtaposing of fluid fabrics with constructed silhouettes. Sticking to a single colour palette for visual ease, the collection is interspersed with beige tones and stripes. The design finesse is evident in the harmony of sharper cuts and skillfully draped silhouettes.
Sneaky Ninja caught up with both Manish and Ujjawal and brings you dope on their collection, styling tips for men and some fun facts.
Manish Bansal
Q1. Your collection is inspired by British Bulldog, tell us more about it?
MB: Delving into the darker side of the symbolism, I have used the British Bulldog, an image associated at the time with right-wing propaganda, set against a backdrop of social and economic unrest. The Bull dog, once seen as a sinister and aggressive ‘fighting’ and bull-baiting dog, is woven into the collection’s narrative by using lyrically crafted, delicate hand- felting techniques, emboldened by sequins worked into intense and intricately stitched embroidered outlines to form motifs. This ‘mascot’ is emblazoned on jackets and also referenced through paw-print and stud-collar detailed appliques.
Q2. What is the colour of season for menswear this winter?
MB : Maroon, Deep cranberry and Navy
Q3. Textile for menswear this season?
MB: Shearling and wool checks
Q4. Must have accessories for men?
MB: A pair on sunglasses, a manbag or clutch and a watch.
Q5. What is your style advice for men looking beyond bandgalas and jodhpuri for festive wear/ wedding season?
MB: Manish : For me “classic never dies”. An indian man’s wardrobe should always have the staple suits first. These suits come in handy for any occasions specially the wedding season in india. You can jazz up the suit with right shoes and accessories to match the “bling” factor of the Indian ethnic wear.
Q6. 3 styling advice for men
- Have atleast one well-tailored 3-piece suit in your wardrobe. One can create different permutation and combinations by adding various formal and casual items.
- Spend some time in your grooming. An everyday-grooming routine of 10 mins can go along way.
- Don’t copy style from bollywood actors randomly. They have a team of people working on their looks. You need to make the assesement if you can carry it off.
Q7. A men’s style trend you detest?
MB: Fluorescent colour t-shirts and shoes. Just can’t stand the fluorescent green in particular.
Q8. If you could pick a muse, anyone across the world who would it be?
MB: It can’t be one person…Mr. Amitabh Bachan, Mr. Rainer Andreesen, Mr. Nick Wooster and Mr. James Dean
Q9. This is your 5th fashion week, what next?
MB : The label is in its fifth sason. Just before fashion week I have setup a studio in Delhi for retailing and cater to clientele . They are a couple of collaborations in pipelines over the next few months. I have also been talking to people during fashion week and we feel there is a niche in the market to do a menswear trunk show in India. A few have shown interest so I am hoping it will lead somewhere.
Q10. Personal fashion weakness?
MB.I Think my fashion weakness is shoes and tailoring. I own 15 pairs of each. 🙂
Q11. London or Delhi?
MB : London to go out and Delhi to eat and relax!
Q12. Gulab Jamun or scones?
MB : Gulan jamun i would say, but it would be good to try them together? HMMMMM
Q13.Poison of your choice?
MB: Cognac or Whiskey!
Ujjawal Dubey
Q1. While lot of designers are doing prints, sports luxe, patchwork your collection focuses on drapes and textile. What is the inspiration behind it?
UD:I believe in the drama that naturally comes through the fabric and thats what keeps me inclined towards drapes and textile.
Q2. Whats the colour of season for menswear this winter?
UD: Stone greys/ charcoal greys/ classic black
Q3. Textile for menswear this season?
UD: Heavy cottons/ cotton linen blends
Q4.What is your take on androgyny silhouette?
UD: Androgyny is the way ahead. I do not focus on differentiating or defining menswear or womenswear, I’m just trying to get both as close as possible, thus blurring the boundaries
Q5.Your silhouettes have far east influence than traditional indian designs, what is your style advice for men looking beyond bandgalas and jodhpuri for festive wear/ wedding season?
UD: Subtle yet strong silhouettes are the key for menswear. Interestingly layered kurtas and jackets with the subtly dramatic bottoms enhance the festive look.
Q6. 3 styling advice for men
- Keep it easy and comfortable
- Outfit should complement the personality
- Play with layers
Q7. A men’s style trend you detest?
UD: Over bling
Q8. If you could pick a muse, anyone across the world who would it be?
UD:The everyday man. Anyone who carries himself with confidence and are not shy of experimentation.
Q9. Personal fashion weakness?
UD: Anti-fit
Q10: Mountains or Sea?
UD:Mountains
Q11. Jalebi or Gelato?
UD? Jalebi
Q12. Must have accessories for men?
UD: Beard 😉 , Stole.
Q13 Being part of the ever growing beard love clan, any beard growing/grooming tip?
Tame it and let it be.
